Philosophy
Read time · 4 min
Strength
over lightness.
The most popular advice in climbing is also the most dangerous. A long argument against the “lose weight to climb harder” mindset, and what to do instead.
The thesis
0104Strength is the lever.
“If I was a little lighter, I’d have gotten that move.” “I’m too heavy right now.” You hear it in every gym.
Climbers are taught that strength-to-weight is the master ratio of the sport. Some resolve to cutting. The numerator drops with the denominator and they wonder why they aren’t climbing harder.
Cutting shrinks both ends. Training grows the one that climbs.
The lever has a name. Progressive overload — a little more than last time, every time. Add a kilo to the hangboard. One more rep on the bar. One more move on the wall than last session. That’s the engine.
The numerator is the lever you can actually pull. Get stronger.
Citation
02044%
At most 4% of the difference between climbers comes down to how you are built once training is in the picture. Height. Arm span. Weight.
What actually predicts performance trains. Strength. Technique. Hours on the wall.
Faggian et al. — Journal of Sport and Health Science, 2024
The permission
0304Eat enough.
Under-fueling is not discipline. It makes you weaker and slower to recover.
Strength comes from training hard, and training hard costs calories, glycogen, protein, and sleep. Cut the fuel and you cut the adaptation. Your weight does not earn the result. Your work does.
You cannot build strength in a chronic deficit. You cannot recover from hard sessions half-fueled. You cannot send your project in the evening if all you ate until then was a protein bar and an energy drink.
Since 2024 the sport’s own federation screens every competition athlete for underfueling. Land in the red zone and you do not compete until a doctor clears you.
Eat like an athlete. The results will follow.
The measure
0404The only benchmark is you.
Climbing is full of comparison. Feeds push other climbers’ sends at you. Leaderboards rank strangers above you. Grades become social currency. Overhang has none of it.
No feed. No followers. No leaderboards. No comparisons. Just you, your training, your progress. Nothing else.
Be stronger than you were last session. That is the only benchmark.
End
August 2026
That’s it.
That’s how you get strong.
- 01Train hard.
- 02Eat enough.
- 03Sleep.
- 04Stay healthy.
- 05Measure yourself against yourself.
The rest is just an app.